Portland’s Notorious Food Scene Maker brings Rustic Elegance to North Mississippi’s Rocking Little Gastropub.
photo credits: interurban pdx/rotgut blog
The early aughts saw the spectacular rise of Portland’s food scene. It was a watershed moment fueled by the local, artisan food movements that emphasized fresh, local-sourced ingredients spawning farm-to-table restaurants that connected diners directly with the source of their meals.
The scene was a veritable breeding ground for creators, innovators and culinary superstars, and Morgan Brownlow one of its shiniest stars. Known for his artistic approach to food and deep passion for creating memorable dining experiences, he gained notoriety by way of his meteoric rise as Founding Chef and Partner of Ripe, a restaurant borne of Chef Naomi Pomeroy’s intimate invite-only Family Suppers. What followed was a much-heralded tenure at clarklewis, a restaurant that quickly earned acclaim, including being named the Oregonian’s Restaurant of the Year just three months after its opening. Brownlow’s subsequent resume over the following decade reads like a who’s who of Portland food scene royalty, beginning with stints at Toro Bravo and Gorham Tavern and Tasty & Alder, and then a partner role with beloved Portland Butcher and Charcutier Tails and Trotters, known for its flavorful local hazelnut-finished pork.
I caught up with Brownlow at Interurban, where he recently stepped in as Head Chef, flexing his farm-to-table credentials and bringing a well-placed dose of rustic elegance to the popular mainstay. “It’s such a great place – excellent team and no drama – I’ve been here for nearly two months and only recently had my first day off as I dive into the menu, streamline, make small changes and build upon it with some new additions. My vision is food that is rustic and elegant but also just really good. I describe it as my style with an occasional curveball.”
I’d say this description is apropos. And it feels like an excellent fit. As I nibbled on some of the Chef’s newest menu additions, I couldn’t help feeling I’d found something akin to the Paris bistros of my imagination – casual neighborhood haunts that cater to the locals and feature dishes that are simple, comforting and quite delicious. Offering presentation without pretension and execution without fussiness, the dishes were quietly reflective of his encyclopedic culinary skillset.
I started off with the Sweet Pea Toast, a vibrant green pea and mint pesto atop grilled baguette and finished with a sprinkling of nutty Parmesan. I typically eschew crostini-type appetizers because the toppings always slide off onto my plate (or lap) as soon as I take a bite. But this was different – the baguette was sliced at the perfect thickness and grilled just enough to allow for a contrast in textures while the pesto almost seemed to melt into its surface. Doubtless, this is what crostini is supposed to be like but rarely is.
I followed with the Peasant Salad – a throwback to Brownlow’s clarklewis days – a mix of bitter greens and chicories lightly dressed in a simple Balsamic vinaigrette and studded with generous hunks of buttery house-cured pancetta and raw walnuts. The salad was hearty and satisfying – a welcome change to the uninspired field greens or wedge salads that seem to pop up on every restaurant menu going back to 2010. There was a small bowl of green Castelvetrano olives perfumed with orange zest and accompanied by a plate of assorted house-made pickles – simple but sublime. The flavorful Old Bay Prawn Cocktail was delightful – the presentation a contrast of textures, colors and flavors that I can only describe as a cross between ceviche and the best gazpacho you’ve ever tasted.
A standout surprise was the Shumai Slider, which reimagines the popular Vietnamese dumplings by topping the juicy shrimp and pork filling with a tangy slaw topped with crunchy fried onions atop a sweet, pillowy Hawaiian bread roll. I was unsurprised to learn that 94.7’s DJ Greg Glover lauded it on a recent broadcast, predicting that people will visit Interurban just to eat it. I’ve personally dreamt about that damned slider every day for an entire week now, so definitely try at your own risk.
Brownlow’s affinity for all things French is evidenced in both the big and small changes that have begun to spring up across the menu in the two months he’s been onboard. In an elevated Steak Frites, pan juices mingle with a rich Bordelais sauce beneath a perfectly grilled NY Strip Steak, the whole of which is topped with a lush Béarnaise butter. And new to the menu, the Croque Monsieur features Grand Central Brioche, a classic Mornay cheese cause and thinly sliced pit ham. Vegan offerings are given the same level of care – the Wild Mushroom Risotto, made in the pillota style, is a rustic and satisfying dish featuring fried French green lentils and sage with vegan parmesan folded in just before serving. The pillota style of cooking lends the dish a unique character that sits somewhere between a pilaf and a traditional, creamy risotto. For the Falafel Wrap, Morgan uses a panisse instead of a more typical falafel batter. Made of chickpea flour, olive oil and water, it results in a more delicate and silkier patty than its grittier counterpart. The patties are wrapped up in a warm flour tortilla with an addictive green goddess aioli and topped with crunchy vegetables and pepperoncini for a perfect spicy kick.
But with all of the improvements, Brownlow still insists he’s keeping things approachable. In fact, he was quick to tell me that one of his first orders of business was to improve on the batter for the corn dog. “It wasn’t crisp enough!” And while technically, I could not find room for dessert, I did indulge in another of Brownlow’s recent additions – the Fruity Pebble Ice Cream Push Pop, which, outside of being delicious, was a whole lot of fun to eat.
Interurban is located at 4057 N Mississippi Ave in Portland, Oregon
Open: 4pm-2:30am
Late Night Menu: 10pm-Close
Happy Hour: 4-5pm, 7 Days a Week
